Mogette Plate - Untested

A classic Vendée plate — mogettes in broth, perfumed with salt pork, with sharp greens and bread to soak it all up.

1 recipe Mogette de Vendée

60–80 g salt pork (lard salé / poitrine salée)

1 tsp apple cider vinegar or white wine vinegar

Bitter greens for salad (arugula, frisee, etc), or braised greens

Vinaigrette or vinegar, to dress the greens

A modest slice of bread, to serve

1. Make the Mogette de Vendée recipe; keep warm.
2. Meanwhile, place the pork in a small pot and cover with cold water. 
3. Bring just to a boil - look for the moment when you see a full, rolling boil across the surface — vigorous bubbles breaking continuously, then immediately drain and rinse. 
4. Slice the blanched pork thickly — coins or short batons, about 1 to 1.5 cm. Add to the mogettes for the last 20–25 minutes of cooking, letting it gently perfume the broth without dissolving into fat.
5. Prepare the greens. Either dress a bitter green salad simply with vinaigrette, or lightly steam or braise chard, kale, or cabbage and finish with a splash of vinegar. Keep it sharp — this is the counterpoint to the rich, yielding beans.
6. Assemble and serve. Ladle the mogettes into a bowl with plenty of their light broth. Stir in the vinegar. Arrange the pork pieces alongside — not mixed through. Serve the greens on the side with a modest slice of bread for soaking up the broth.

With bread (as specified):

🟢 7.8 / 10 — Solidly within LHSS “green zone”

Without bread:

🟢 8.4 / 10 — Exceptionally liver-gentle

Brownie cocktail - Testing

1 - This is Ben's invention, first made in the drafty cold but beautiful Whalewych farmhouse.

1 and a half parts vodka

1 part crème de cacao

1/4 shot jagermeister

a few drops of coffee bitters

1. Dip the rim of a martini glass in sugar before pouring in the cocktail.

Sweet Celery Pie - Untested

https://www.24heures.ch/rcomment-cuisiner-le-celeri-pour-le-dessert-540471639949

Makes one 26 cm (10-inch) tart

1 kg (2.2 lbs) celery stalks

500 g (2½ cups) sugar + 50 g (¼ cup) extra

1 vanilla pod

200 g (1⅔ cups) plain flour

120 g (½ cup) whipping cream

1 egg yolk

30 g (¼ cup) ground almonds

1 pinch of salt

⅓ cup table cream

⅓ cup milk

1 large egg

1. Slice the celery into ½ cm (¼ inch) rounds.
2. Over medium heat, dissolve the 500 g of sugar in 500 ml (2 cups) of water with the scraped vanilla pod. Once the syrup is boiling, add the celery pieces and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Leave to rest in the syrup for 10 minutes, then drain into a bowl and set the syrup aside (it's lovely used in a fruit salad).
3. For the pastry: Mix the flour with the 50 g of sugar, a pinch of salt and the double cream. Work with your fingertips for about 10 minutes until the mixture reaches a sandy, crumbly texture. Add the ground almonds and mix, then add the egg yolk and 2 tablespoons of water. Bring together into a dough.
4. Roll out on a floured surface, line your tart tin, and refrigerate for 1 hour.
5. Prick the base with a fork and cover with baking weights (ceramic beans, chickpeas, or dried beans work well). Blind bake for 30 minutes at 210°C (410°F).
6. Leave to cool, then arrange the candied celery over the base.
7. Whisk together the egg, single cream, milk and 50 ml of the reserved celery syrup. Pour over the tart.
8. Bake for 20 minutes at 190°C (375°F).

Italian Carrot Cake (Torta di Carotta) - Untested

https://ricette.giallozafferano.it/Torta-di-Carote.html

for a 22 cm mould

Carrots 300 g, grated

Flour 200 g

Almond flour 100 g

3 eggs (180 g)

Sugar 150 g

Sunflower seed oil 150 g

Orange juice (can use lemon juice) 80 g

Orange zest to taste (or vanilla extract)

Baking powder 16 g

1 pinch of fine salt

to decorate

Flaked almonds 50 g

Powdered sugar to taste

1. To prepare the carrot cake, first grate the orange zest and set it aside. Squeeze the juice and filter it. At this point, trim the carrots and peel them.
2. Break the eggs into a bowl, add the sugar and a pinch of salt. Work with an electric whisk until you get a light and frothy consistency.
3. When the eggs are well whipped, slowly pour in the seed oil and the orange juice. Then add the grated orange zest.
4. Still with the whisks in action, add the carrots. Mix until well incorporated. Now pour the flour and the sifted yeast into a bowl and almond flour. Mix the powders together with a spoon.
5. Turn the whisk on again and incorporate the powders a little at a time. Mix with the whisk at medium speed until you obtain a smooth mixture. Then transfer it into a 22 cm mould lined with baking paper.
6. Decorate the surface with almond flakes and bake in a preheated static oven at 180° for 55 minutes. Always test with a toothpick before removing from the oven. Let it cool completely, then unmold and decorate with powdered sugar. Your carrot cake is ready to serve!

You can store the carrot cake for 2-3 days under a glass bell jar.

Alternatively, you can freeze it whole or in portions.

Advise

Instead of orange juice, you can use lemon juice, plant-based milk, or semi-skimmed milk.

Langue braisée au vin rouge - Untested

Serves 6

Whole beef tongue 1420g

Lardons or diced smoked pork belly 180g

Onion, roughly chopped 225g

Carrot, roughly chopped 180g

Celery, roughly chopped 100g

Garlic cloves, lightly crushed 30g

Red wine (Burgundy, Côtes du Rhône, or similar) 750ml

Beef stock 500ml

Tomato paste 30g

Plain flour 25g

Butter 40g

Neutral oil (sunflower or grapeseed) 20g

Fresh thyme sprigs 10g

Bay leaves 4

Parsley stalks (reserve leaves for serving) 20g

Black peppercorns 10g

Coarse salt (for blanching water) 30g

Flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped, to finish 15g

1. Blanch and peel the tongue by placing it in a large pot, cover generously with cold water, and add the coarse salt. Bring to a boil and blanch for 15 minutes — grey scum will rise; this is normal. Drain and rinse under cold running water. While still warm enough to handle, use a small sharp knife to peel away the tough outer skin — it should come off in large pieces. Trim any excess fat or gristle from the root end.
2. To marinate, place the peeled tongue in a deep bowl with the red wine, onion, carrot, celery, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, parsley stalks, and peppercorns. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight but no longer than 18 hours. When ready to braise, lift the tongue out and pat it dry. Strain the marinade and reserve both the liquid and the vegetables separately.
3. Preheated the oven to 150°C and heat a heavy lidded casserole or Dutch oven large enough to hold the tongue, in it. Render the lardons over medium heat until golden and their fat has run. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving 2 Tbsps. of fat in the pan.
4. Add the oil to the lardon fat and raise the heat to medium-high. Season the tongue with salt and brown it on all sides — about 3 minutes per side. You want good colour here; it builds the foundation of the sauce. Remove the tongue and set aside.
5. Reduce the heat to medium and add the butter to the pan. Add the reserved vegetables from the marinade  and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes until softened and beginning to colour. Add the tomato paste and stir it in, cooking for 2 minutes until it deepens in colour. Scatter over the flour and stir to coat everything — cook for a further 2 minutes.
6. Pour in the reserved marinade liquid and bring to a vigorous simmer, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the beef stock and return the lardons to the pot. Nestle the tongue back in — it should be roughly half-submerged. Tuck the thyme, bay leaves, and parsley stalks around it if you have fresh ones to spare. Bring everything to a gentle simmer.
7. Cover with the lid and transfer to the oven at 300°F. Braise for 3 to 3.5 hours, turning the tongue once at the halfway point. It is ready when a skewer meets no resistance at the thickest part and the meat has a slight wobble when you nudge the pot. If your tongue is on the larger side, allow up to 4 hours.
8. Lift the tongue out and wrap loosely in foil to rest for 20 minutes. Strain the braising liquid through a fine sieve into a saucepan, pressing the vegetables firmly to extract every drop. Discard the solids. Skim any fat from the surface, then bring the sauce to a brisk simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce for 10–15 minutes until it coats a spoon generously and has a deep, wine-dark colour. Taste carefully and adjust salt — the sauce concentrates significantly, so hold back until the end.
9. Slice the tongue across the grain into pieces about 12mm thick — the meat should be yielding and almost silky. Arrange on a warm platter or individual plates, spoon the sauce generously over and around, and scatter the chopped flat-leaf parsley over the top. Serve immediately with mashed potato, buttered egg noodles, or soft polenta, and something sharp alongside — cornichons, a good Dijon mustard, or pickled walnuts all work beautifully.

Notes

• On the wine. Use something you'd actually drink — nothing expensive, but nothing undrinkable. A young, fruity red works best. Avoid anything heavily oaked or very tannic, as it can turn bitter on reduction.
• Make ahead. This dish is genuinely better the next day. Cool the tongue in its sauce, refrigerate overnight, then skim the solidified fat from the surface, reheat gently, and slice. The meat firms up and slices more cleanly, and the sauce deepens overnight.
• On the sauce. The reduction in Step 8 is where the dish earns its keep — don't rush it. You want it thick enough to coat the back of a spoon and leave a clean line when you draw your finger through it.

Langue de porc braisée au vin rouge - Untested

A farmhouse Burgundy braise — pig's tongue slow-cooked in red wine

Pig's tongue 410 g

Coarse salt (brine) 18 g

Cold water (brine) 1000 g

Red wine 750 g

Lardons / bacon 75 g

Pearl onions or shallots 100 g

Mushrooms 125 g

Garlic 12 g

Carrot 200 g

Onion 150 g

Celery 100 g

Unsalted butter 40 g

Plain flour 18 g

Stock 300 g

Flat-leaf parsley 8 g

Black peppercorns 3 g

Cloves 1 g

Saturday — start the brine: Dissolve 0.6 ounces coarse salt (for brining) in 35.7 ounces cold water (for brining) in a bowl or container large enough to submerge the tongue. Add 14.6 ounces pig's tongue, raw, cover and refrigerate. Leave until Wednesday evening — roughly 4 days. This extended brine will give the tongue a lightly cured, petit salé character that works beautifully in this dish.

2

Wednesday evening — first poach: Remove tongue from brine and rinse well. Place in a pot and cover generously with cold water. Add 5.4 ounces onion, roughly chopped, 7.1 ounces carrot, roughly chopped, 3.6 ounces celery stalks, roughly chopped, 3 pieces bay leaves, 0.1 ounces black peppercorns, 0 ounces cloves, and a few sprigs of 6 pieces thyme sprigs. Bring to a boil, skim any grey foam thoroughly, then reduce to a gentle simmer. The tongue is done when a skewer meets no resistance at the thickest point.

3

Wednesday evening — peel while hot: Lift the tongue out of the poaching liquid and discard the liquid. While still hot (use tongs and a cloth), peel off the thick outer skin starting from the tip — it should come away in large strips. Trim any gristly root bits. This cannot be done cold; the skin bonds back to the meat as it cools. Work quickly.

4

Wednesday evening — wine marinade overnight: Place the peeled tongue in a bowl with 26.8 ounces red wine (Pinot Noir, Gamay, or BC Okanagan red), a smashed clove of 0.4 ounces garlic cloves, smashed, a sprig of 6 pieces thyme sprigs and a bay leaf from 3 pieces bay leaves. Cover and refrigerate overnight — 12 to 780 minutes 

780:00

 is ideal. Do not exceed 24 hours or the wine acid will begin to degrade the surface texture.

5

Wednesday or Thursday — render the lardons: In a heavy casserole (cast iron is ideal), cook 2.7 ounces lardons or thick-cut bacon, cut into chunks over medium heat until the fat has rendered and the pieces are golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Leave the fat in the pan.

6

Brown the tongue: Remove tongue from the wine marinade and pat thoroughly dry — reserve the wine. In the lardon fat over medium-high heat, brown the tongue on all sides until deeply coloured. Don't rush this; 6–8 minutes total. Remove and set aside.

7

Build the braise: Reduce heat to medium. Add 1.4 ounces unsalted butter to the pot. Add remaining 0.4 ounces garlic cloves, smashed and cook 1 minute. Scatter over 0.6 ounces plain flour and stir into the fat to make a rough roux. Cook 2 minutes, stirring, until it smells nutty. Pour in the reserved wine from the marinade, scraping up all the browned bits. Add 10.7 ounces pork or chicken stock. Tuck in remaining 3 pieces bay leaves, 6 pieces thyme sprigs, the browned lardons and the tongue. The liquid should come about halfway up the tongue.

8

Braise low and slow: Bring to a bare simmer, cover tightly and cook in a 150°C / 300°F oven or over the lowest possible stovetop heat. Turn the tongue once halfway through. At 410g the tongue will need slightly less time than a full-sized one — start checking at the 75 minutes 

75:00

 mark.

9

Cool overnight for Thursday (recommended): If braising on Wednesday, remove from oven, allow to cool, then refrigerate tongue and sauce together overnight. The sauce will tighten, the fat will solidify and lift off cleanly, and the flavour will deepen considerably. This is the ideal approach — Thursday becomes a simple reheating job.

10

Glaze the pearl onions and mushrooms: About 10 minutes 

10:00

 before serving on Thursday, melt a knob of extra butter in a wide pan over medium-high heat. Add 3.6 ounces pearl onions or small shallots, peeled with a pinch of sugar and cook, shaking the pan, until golden — about 10 minutes. Remove. In the same pan, turn up the heat, add another small knob of butter and sear 4.5 ounces mushrooms (cremini or wild), quartered hard until golden. Season. Set both aside.

11

Finish the sauce: Lift the solidified fat from the surface of the cold sauce and discard. Transfer sauce to a wide saucepan and reduce over high heat until it coats a spoon — about 10 minutes 

10:00

. Taste for salt. Add the glazed onions and mushrooms to warm through.

12

Slice and serve: Slice the tongue cold on a slight diagonal into pieces about 1cm thick — cold slicing gives much cleaner cuts. Lay slices in the sauce and warm gently over low heat with a lid on for a few minutes. Do not boil. Arrange on warm plates, spoon sauce, onions and mushrooms generously over the top, and scatter with 0.3 ounces flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped. Serve with egg noodles, boiled potatoes, or crusty bread.

Notes

Thursday timeline: The braise happens Wednesday evening after the overnight wine marinade. Thursday is just glazing the onions and mushrooms (10 min), reducing the sauce (10 min), slicing the cold tongue and warming through (10 min). Dinner is essentially ready in 30 minutes.

The sauce volume: With a smaller piece of meat but full sauce quantities, you will have generous sauce — which is a good thing. Any leftover sauce freezes beautifully and is excellent with pasta, pork chops, or as a base for another braise.

Wine: A BC Okanagan Pinot Noir is a natural choice and would be very much in the spirit of using local ingredients throughout.

Mushrooms: If you have access to any wild mushrooms from the island, use them here — chanterelles or hedgehogs in particular would be exceptional.

Winter Minestrone - Untested

https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2015/nov/24/winter-minestrone-soup-recipe-celery-soffritto-rachel-roddy-

Serves 6

500g cavolo nero (try Mustard Greens)

1 large onion

3 ribs of celery, with a few leaves

6 tbsp olive oil

Salt and black pepper

400g pumpkin/squash flesh

1 potato

400g cooked white beans

1.5 litres of water or bean broth (or a mix of both)

A parmesan rind (if you have one)

A small sprig of sage

1. Wash the cavolo nero, strip any particularly thick stems from the leaves and roughly chop, roll the leaves and shred thickly.
2. Peel and dice the onion and celery for the soffritto. Heat the olive oil in a large heavy-based pan and slowly fry the onion, celery and a pinch of salt, until soft, which will take about 8 minutes.
3. Peel and cut the pumpkin and potato into 1cm chunks, then add to the pan along with the cavolo nero stems and a tiny pinch of salt, stirring to prevent sticking, until each chunk glistens with oil. Add half the cavolo nero leaves, half the beans, the water and the parmesan rind.
4. Raise the heat so the soup nearly boils, and then reduce to a simmer for 30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Five minutes before the end of the cooking time, add the rest of the cavolo nero and beans. Taste, and add salt and pepper as needed then chop the sage and add it. Allow it to sit for 5 minutes, then serve, passing round a bowl of grated parmesan for anyone who wants it.