There are always loads of recipes I'd like to try but lose them before I do. This is where I can record recipes I find interesting and keep notes on my experiments with them.

I have a system that I've adopted for working through recipes:

1 - New recipes are saved to the Experimental Mouffette and is labeled : Untested
2 - As I'm working out the changes I'd like to make (if any) it is labeled : Testing
3 - Once I think I've got the correct formula it is labeled : Test 1
4 - IF I am able to reproduce the effect a second time it is labeled : Test 2 - if I am not able to reproduce the effect, it remains Test 1
5 - The same process as step 4 is used to graduate it to Test 3
6 - Once I have been able to reproduce the effect successfully 3 times, it graduates to my main blog, La Mouffette Gourmande

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Monday, September 2, 2013

French Toast (Pain doré) - Test 1

1 - This is the beginning of my search for the perfect French toast recipe. French toast or, as we called it, pain doré was a frequent Sunday lunch food in our house when I was growing up, probably because it acted as a vehicle for maple syrup. As I grew up, I realized there were other types of French toast, subtle variations on the theme. I'm very please with my pancake recipe, now I want to find the right French toast recipe for me. I start my search by trying a Cook's Illustrated recipe. I've listed the things I'd like to try and change, in the recipe.
2 - I fell into the common cooking trap of making it complicated thinking that makes it better. Stop it. The old complicated recipe is at the bottom, and the new, simplified version is directly below these comments.
3 - The simplified version works just fine. Letting the bread soak through and then allowing it to cook slowly seems important. I would like to try to use only egg yolk, but that seems a bit extreme in most cases, when I want something, quick.

FOR EVERY 3 SLICES OF BREAD, sliced thick
1 egg
1/3 cup milk
pinch of salt
butter for frying
OPTIONAL
1/8 tsp ground cinnamon 
1/8 tsp ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
  1. Beat together the egg, milk, salt, and optional spices and vanilla.
  2. Heat a knob of butter in a fry pan over medium-low heat for a few minutes or until the butter starts to gently froth. 
  3. When ready, completely submerge each slice of bread in the egg mixture, allowing for the custard to soak in, but not so long that the bread falls apart. 
  4. Allow the bread to drip for a bit before putting it in the pan, and cook on both sides until golden. Serve hot.


OLD RECIPE

8 large slices hearty white sandwich bread (we tried Cobs white sandwich and it was interesting, but too dense for the liquid to soak to the middle even after several minutes) or good-quality challah (IT SHOULD BE AT LEAST DAY OLD AND DRY-ISH)

1 1/2cups whole milk, warmed
3 large egg yolks
Cinnamon sugar (mix 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 3 tablespoons brown sugar)
2 tablespoons butter, melted, plus 2 tablespoons for cooking
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
Maple syrup

1. (Drying the Cobs bread ended up making a tougher French toast. Not recommended, but to try with other types of bread) Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees. Place bread on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Bake bread until almost dry throughout (center should remain slightly moist), about 16 minutes, flipping slices halfway through cooking. Remove bread from rack and let cool 5 minutes. Return baking sheet with wire rack to oven and reduce temperature to 200 degrees.
2. Whisk warm milk, yolks, cinnamon sugar, 2 tablespoons melted butter, salt, and vanilla in large bowl until well blended. Transfer mixture to 13- by 9-inch baking pan.
3. If the pan isn’t hot enough when you put your first slice in, the custard spreads out, forming a foot on the bottom of the French toast. When the pan is hot enough, the batter won’t have time to seep and the eggs will start cooking as soon as they hit it. For good texture, reduce heat so that the bread takes about 3 minutes to brown.
4. Soak bread in milk mixture until saturated but not falling apart, 20 seconds per side (be sure it's long enough for the liquid to have soaked all the way to the middle). Using firm slotted spatula, pick up bread slice and allow excess milk mixture to drip off; repeat with remaining slices. Place soaked bread on another baking sheet or platter. (This last bit seemed excessive, but now I think it may have been good to let it all rest and finish soaking before putting on griddle for the capillary action)
4. Heat ½ tablespoon butter in 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. When foaming subsides, use slotted spatula to transfer slices soaked bread to skillet and cook until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Do not crowd the bread. Flip and continue to cook until second side is golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes longer. (If toast is cooking too quickly, reduce temperature slightly.)  Since there’s sugar in the egg mixture (the custard), it will caramelize and burn quickly. Plus, the inside won’t cook, and you’ll be left with a burnt yet soggy piece of French toast. Conversely, if you cook it on too low a temperature, the bread will dry out and you won’t have that nice, soft center that makes French toast so decadent. Cook 3-4 minutes per side on medium to medium-high heat.
5. Transfer to baking sheet in oven. Wipe out skillet with paper towels. Repeat cooking with remaining bread, 2 pieces at a time, adding ½ tablespoon of butter for each batch. Serve warm, passing maple syrup separately.

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