There are always loads of recipes I'd like to try but lose them before I do. This is where I can record recipes I find interesting and keep notes on my experiments with them.

I have a system that I've adopted for working through recipes:

1 - New recipes are saved to the Experimental Mouffette and is labeled : Untested
2 - As I'm working out the changes I'd like to make (if any) it is labeled : Testing
3 - Once I think I've got the correct formula it is labeled : Test 1
4 - IF I am able to reproduce the effect a second time it is labeled : Test 2 - if I am not able to reproduce the effect, it remains Test 1
5 - The same process as step 4 is used to graduate it to Test 3
6 - Once I have been able to reproduce the effect successfully 3 times, it graduates to my main blog, La Mouffette Gourmande

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Thursday, August 3, 2017

Untested - Oeufs en cocotte Lyonnaise

Baked Eggs in Ramekins With Onions from The Country Cooking of France by Anne Willan

1 Tbsp butter
6 - 8 scallions, sliced (90 to 160g)
Salt and pepper
Country Bread
More butter (2 Tbsps)
4 eggs
1/4 cup heavy cream

  1. Heat the oven to 350F. Butter the ramekins.
  2. Melt the Tbsp of butter over medium heat and fry the scallions until golden (5-7 minutes).
  3. Spread them in the ramekins and season with salt and pepper.
  4. Cube the bread to make croutons.
  5. Over medium heat melt the 2 Tbsps of butter in a small pan (level of butter should be 1/4 inch) and allow it to heat up completely so that when a cube of bread is put in, it will quietly sizzle.
  6. Add the bread cubes and fry, stirring constantly so they brown evenly, about 30 seconds to 1 minutes. 
  7. Burns easily!
  8. Strain off the extra fat.
  9. Scatter the croutons over the scallions and season again. (this can be done in advance and left at room temperature)
  10. Break an egg in into each ramekin and spoon enough cream to cover it, about a Tbsp.
  11. Line a roasting pan with a dish towel and pour on enough boiling water to come up half way the sides of the ramekins.
  12. Bring the water just back to a boil on the stove top before popping the whole thing into the oven
  13. Bake until the egg whites are almost set, about 10-11 minutes, depending on the ramekin and how hot your oven is. NOTE the eggs will continue cooking for a minute or two in the hot dishes after they've been taken out of the oven.

Oeufs brouillés - PUBLISHED

Scrambled Eggs from Monet's Table by Claire Joyes, p. 116

1 - Made this to great acclaim as a 'light' hot summer evening's meal. I used some old frozen chanterelles I'd forgotten in our freezer. I often find in the recipes from this book that there's some important detail missing. It just so happened that I was also looking at egg recipes in Anne Willan's Country Cooking of France, an author whose recipes I also find miss important details. In this instance, the two complimented each other famously. Fried croutons instead of dry croutons are the perfect accompaniment to the eggs - I doubt this first test would have elicited such enthusiasm, otherwise.
2 - I made this again but with only tarragon, again to ooohs and aaahs.
3 - I used dry tarragon this time, still to positive effect. I will alter the instructions slightly to underline the importance of a cool pan - I poured in the eggs when the pan was still too hot and it started to cook too quickly even before I could put in the first pat of butter.

1 cup croutons
2 slices of crusty bread (about 1 cup)
2 Tbsps butter
8 eggs
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp pepper
More butter, 1/4 to 1/2 cup, cubed
OPTIONS
2 Tbsps minced fresh herb OR
2 Tbsps minced truffles OR
1/2 cup chanterelle OR morel OR oyster mushrooms sautéed in butter for about 10 minutes WHICH YOU MUST DO FIRST (read instructions)
  1. Cube the bread to make croutons.
  2. Over medium heat melt the 2 Tbsps of butter in a small pan (level of butter should be 1/4 inch) and allow it to heat up completely so that when a cube of bread is put in, it will quietly sizzle.
  3. Add the bread cubes and fry, stirring constantly so they brown evenly, about 30 seconds to 1 minutes. 
  4. Burns easily!
  5. Strain off the extra fat. 
  6. With a slotted spoon remove the croutons and divide croutons between two plates.
  7. If using mushrooms, use the remaining butter to cook them and set them aside.
  8. Bring the water to boil in a bain-marie (NOTE the secret is not the bain-marie but to cook the eggs very slowly, therefore 
  9. NOTE: A bain-marie is the usual way of preparing this dish, but a fry pan can be used - it should take about 5 minutes until the eggs just begin to thicken. If using the fry pan, it is VERY IMPORTANT that it be cool before putting in the eggs - if the pan is too hot, the eggs will start to scramble before you can incorporate the butter and it will not be as creamy.
  10. Break the eggs into a bowl, and carefully remove the threads of the whites without mixing the eggs too much. Add the salt and pepper and beat lightly, as for an omelet. NOTE the mixture must not foam.
  11. Grease the insert for the bain-marie with the first cube of the second batch of butter before pouring in the eggs (or, if using, a cool fry pan which can be the fry pan you've used before but cooled enough to touch). Beat the eggs well with a wooden spoon for 2 minutes, until the mixture begins to thicken.
  12. Now add the remaining cubes of butter, beating constantly after each addition. When the eggs are on the point of setting, you may add your optional ingredient.
  13. As soon as the mixture becomes grainy, remove the saucepan from the heat and pour the contents over the croutons and serve.

Wednesday, August 2, 2017

Untested - Oeufs berrichons

Stuffed Eggs, from Monet's Table by Claire Joyes, p. 116

4 harboiled eggs
3 parsley sprigs, chopped
1 small onion, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
3 Tbsps heavy cream or crème fraîche
  1. Preheat the oven to 300F.
  2. Slice the eggs in half lengthwise and remove the yolks.
  3. Mash the yolks and combine them with the parsley, onion, garlic, salt and pepper.
  4. Stir in the crème fraîche.
  5. Fill the cavities in the whites with the mixture.
  6. Lightly grease a baking dish. Arrange the eggs  in the dish and bake for about 20 minutes or until the tops are just colouring.

Testing - Oeufs renversés à la Lyonnaise

Savory Egg Custard with Tomato Sauce from Monet's Table by Claire Joyes, p. 115

1 - I screwed up my first attempt - I think I only put in 1 cup of milk. However, this means that the cake tin is not enough to contain the dish. I will have to purchase something larger. I also suspect it means that 30 minutes will not be enough to cook such a large amount of custard.

4 cups milk
1/4 tsp salt
8 eggs
1 cup (3-4 oz) Gruyère cheese, grated
1/2 tsp pepper
12 ripe tomatoes, peeled (3-4lbs)
2 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp pepper
1/2 tsp salt
(optional) 1 small slice ham, cut into julienne strips
2 Tbsps butter cut into pieces
  1. Heat the milk with the salt. When it comes to a boil remove it from the heat but keep it warm (cover it). (Honestly, this is just silly!)
  2. Preheat the oven to 300F. Fill a dish half-way with water and place in the oven - it should be large enough to accommodate your baking dish.
  3. Fill a bowl with ice and water and set it next to the stove. Working in batches, drop several tomatoes into the boiling water. Watch for their skins to start to wrinkle and split, 45 to 60 seconds, then scoop them out with a slotted spoon and transfer them to the ice water bath. Set aside.
  4. Grease a (The recipe suggests a Charlotte mold and with the volume of milk it will need something that size. HOWEVER, a larger container like a lasagna dish or even several ramekins could work just as well, and likely the ramekins would be better because serving would be easier and more attractive).
  5. Beat the eggs, as for an omelet. While beating, add the hot milk a little at a time to allow the egg to gradually heat up whithout become scrambled eggs. After about 6 Tbsps add the rest of the milk and  Once well combined mix in all of the cheese. Stir to combine and pour into the greased pan.
  6. Place the pan in the water bath in the oven - there should be enough water to come up half-way up the sides of the pan.
  7. Bake for 30 minutes (more likely 1 hour) or until the tip of a knife comes out clean from the centre. 
  8. Meanwhile, make the tomato sauce but cutting the tomatoes into quarters and lightly pressing them to extract excess juice and the seeds. 
  9. Put the pulp into a pan with the thyme and bay leaf along with the salt and pepper. Bring to a boil then simmer for at least 20 minutes, allowing it reduce into a purée. 
  10. Just before serving stir in the butter to the sauce one piece at a time until the mixture is smooth.
  11. Pour over the egg custard and serve.

Untested - Rack of Lamb Casserole

http://www.750g.com/carre-dagneau-des-landes-irlandaises-aux-causses-du-quercy-r45256.htm

100 g of pitted prunes (preferably the Prunes d'Agen)
30 cl of fruity red wine
2 capfuls of Armagnac
Grape seed oil
1 large onion, diced
1 rack of lamb
1 garlic clove cut in half
3 tbs grainy mustard
2 c s of rosemary
House bread crumbs
3 garlic cloves cut in half
salt pepper

  1. The day before put the prunes to soak in the warm wine, add the Armagnac.
  2. The next day, rub the lamb with a clove of garlic, brush it with the mustard, then sprinkle with rosemary, then dip it in the bread crumbs (homemade). The breadcrumbs must adhere well to the meat.
  3. In a cast iron casserole sweat the onion, when the onion becomes translucent add the lamb to brown. When the meat is nicely golden add the 3 garlic cloves, let cook about 15min.
  4. Drain the prunes of their marinade and add them at the end of cooking, scrape the juices at the bottom of the casserole and wet with a little marinade (1 glass) and reduce until a very syrupy.
  5. Serve well hot with the plum of prunes, it is delicious, the meat is very tender and sweet and savory suits it.


If you like very rosé lamb shorten the cooking time.

Untested - Stewed Rack of Lamb

https://thefoodsnobuk.wordpress.com/2014/03/17/rack-of-lamb-irish-stew-colcannon-potatoes/
http://instantpot.com/rack-of-lamb-casserole/

8 lamb chop cutlets from the rack of lamb (or 1 lb)
1 lb potatoes, preferably fingerling or baby
4 large carrots in chunks
1 large onion cut in eighths (with basal stem intact)
2 stalks celery, chopped
4 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 cup lamb stock
2/3 cup stout such as Guinness
2 Tbsps fresh chopped parsley
2 dashes of Worcestershire Sauce
1 Tbsp of pearled barley
1/4 cup butter
1/3 cup flour
Salt and pepper
  1. Trim some of the fat from from each of the chops and put the fat in a medium heated frying pan. This will melt some of the lamb fat for use in the next couple of steps.
  2. Preheat oven to 350F.
  3. After 5 to 10 minutes, remove the fatty pieces from the frying pan and discard. Fry each lamb chop in the fat for about three minutes at a medium temperature – turn half way through. Put the lamb chops in the casserole dish.
  4. Cook the carrots, celery and onions in the remaining fat for two minutes, turning frequently.
  5. Put the onions and carrots around the lamb chops in the casserole dish. Season with salt and pepper.
  6. Add the potatoes, thyme, Worcestershire Sauce, pearl barley, lamb stock and beer. Cover and bake for one and a half hours.
  7. Make a roux with the butter and flour by melting the butter and, when it starts to froth, sprinkle in the flour while whisking vigorously. Cook for 2 minutes whisking all the time to prevent it sticking to the bottom of the pan.
  8. Take the casserole dish from the oven and pour off most of the gravy into the roux (be careful, the casserole dish will be hot and the roux could boil over).
  9. Quickly whisk the gravy and roux together. Add back into the casserole and scatter the parsley on top. Check the seasoning and add salt and pepper if necessary.
  10. Cover and put the casserole dish back in the oven for ten minutes.

Monday, July 31, 2017

Untested - Lamb with garlic confit

http://chefsimon.lemonde.fr/gourmets/chef-simon/recettes/souris-d-agneau-confites-a-l-ail

4 lamb's shanks
8 cloves of garlic
2 chiselled onions
A maximum of thyme from my garden or rosemary
oil

  1. The mouse is the end of the lamb leg or shoulder.
  2. I disfigure superficially to avoid too much retraction during cooking and especially I do not sleeve.
  3. You can sting the meat in different places to perfume it.
  4. Here we inserted a burst of garlic but this practice is not obligatory.
  5. Arrange the aromatic garnish in the center of the carta fata papillote.
  6. Place the mouse over the filling and season by adding a few drops of oil to capture the aromas.
  7. Close the papillote with roast string or other tie.
  8. Bake at 150 ° C for 1h30, then open the papillotes and finish cooking 1h00 at 100 ° C.
  9. The mouse is candied, colored and the flesh remained tender and fluffy.


It is thanks to the long cooking at moderate temperature that the flesh of the lamb keeps all its softness.

The carta fata allows the coloring of the meat during the roasting, it is therefore no longer useful to brown it before.

Serve the mice with their cooking juices a salad or sauteed apples.

These are lamb confit mice related to the texture of the meat after cooking and not by reference to cooking in the fat.